Happy Halloween!

I carved four pumpkins this year; these are my two favorites.

We're preparing for probably even more trick-or-treaters this year, the holiday being on a Friday. Usually we get between 300-350.
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Foulard de la semaine

When I first spotted this gorgeous lightweight silk scarf at Printemps, it was love at first sight. When I saw the price, I knew I'd have no trouble making a committment...at 19 euros this was a great buy! I love the autumn tones: burgundy, burnt orange, scarlet and olive.
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Paris - Jackets

One item that I neglected to include in my previous post about Paris fashion trends (I knew I was forgetting something!) was the velvet or corduroy blazer in autumn colors. Above, from Banana Republic velvet, $175.

J.Crew velvet, $168.

Talbot's corduroy, $98.

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Paris Loot - Les Sacs et Les Chaussures

This is the bronze Gerard Darel bag I mentioned here. I've been carrying this bag since I got home. I looked at some of the newer styles with outside pockets, zippers, etc., but they just didn't have the appeal of the original version of this bag, which has been called "Charlotte" (after Charlotte Gainsbourg), the "Drape," and now the "St. Germain." I've learned to use small zippered pouches (the ones you get free from costmetics counters) for my small, loose items.

I truly had not planned to buy more than bag this trip, but fell in love with this color: a lovely smoky grey with just a hint of lilac. The leather is like buttah. Plus the energetic and amiable saleswoman at the Printemps Gerard Darel bag counter reminded us that we could get the 10% tourist discount coupon if we presented our passports at the Concierge desk.

On our way to the Musée Picasso (which unfortunately turned out to be closed for renovations), we passed a shoe store on the Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, which had a "20% off today!" sign in the window, and I spotted these....

...Shooties!! in the window. I'd been wanting a pair of these since last fall, but every pair in LA seemed to have stratospheric heels. These are just the right height, and so comfortable. Shopping serendipity....priceless!

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Paris - les gens, la culture

In which une femme attempts to answer the question, "how would you compare the people and culture of France to those of the U.S.?"

Honestly, this is a tough question to answer. We've been tourists in Paris twice now, each time for a few days. We've had a rarefied experience: staying in nice hotels, visiting museums and gardens, shopping in boutiques and galleries, and eating in cafes and restaurants, most of which were recommended by others who have visited before. It's hardly what one could consider an immersion in the culture and my impressions are mostly snippets, so those are what I'll share.

Actually, for probably the best take on Les Parisiens, you should check out the Stuff Parisians Like blog, written by Olivier Magny, whom I missed meeting in New York by just about an hour...cursed prior plans! Funny aside: the driver who picked us up at the CDG airport when we arrived in Paris immediately launched into telling us about the fabulous Picasso exhibit at the Grand Palais.

(One more note: I know that any population is comprised of individuals, many of whom cannot fit into broad generalizations. I'm speaking from my own impressions and experiences, and do not mean to offend anyone whose experiences and view may differ.)

A sense of history and context. Here in the U.S., we tend to hold fast to the concept of unlimited possibility (even when it gets us in trouble, right Wall Street?), and tend to value the shiny and new over the well-worn and lived-in. Walk around Paris, and it's almost impossible not to be imbued with a sense of history, and I have to believe that growing up and living with that every day results in a different view of the world. It seems to me that Europeans have a much deeper sense of history, of their place in a broader community, of limits to expansion of power and accumulation of wealth, and of the fact that we're all sharing the same sandbox and need to play nice, or at least work out our squabbles. Europeans have lived many centuries with the understanding of limited resources, and are far less wasteful.

Education, kids and dogs. Walking through the Musée Cognacq-Jay (which houses among other things a fabulous collection of 18th century paintings), we turned into one gallery to find about 20 pre-schoolers sitting quietly in a circle listening to a teacher talk about the paintings. There were no cartoon characters, nothing flashing or playing music, and these kids were listening attentively. It makes me think that we tend to underestimate young kids' intelligence and attention spans, but regardless I've never seen anything like it here. At the Musée Jaquemart-André I watched as a boy who appeared to be about 7 or 8 years old listened intently to his audio guide as he regarded one of the 18th century portraits. Expectations seem to be higher for kids when it comes to behavior, and the same is true for dogs, who are allowed in restaurants and shops. Dogs sit quietly on a chair while their masters enjoy a meal or cup of coffee. Perhaps because they've been allowed everywhere, they don't run around trying to sniff (or pee on) each corner or post. (And now that there are fines, Parisians themselves have become better behaved about picking up the merde du chien!)

Materialism, clothing. As many have mentioned, quality trumps quantity in Paris. That doesn't mean everyone is strutting around in designer clothing, but most Parisian apartments don't even have closets (rather clothes are kept in armoires) no one is able to accumulate a lot at once. You also don't see much flashy jewelry (though the chunky rough stone and bead necklaces still seem to be popular) or bling-y clothing or handbags (exception: subtle metallic leathers). Refrigerators are small, so no Costco-size cartons of soft drinks.

Time. I had to remind mon mari that the waiter will not bring l'addition (the check) until you indicate you are ready for it. Even if you sit at a busy cafe with an empty coffee cup, no one will rush you. Working Parisians seem to take time for leisurely lunch, even enjoying a glass of wine, dessert and coffee. I don't know if most workers are paid hourly or are salaried, but no one seemed to be rushed or checking their watches. I've heard that this is changing, and that more Europeans are getting into our bad habits of eating lunch at their desks, or wolfing down food on the run.

Guilt, satisfaction vs. gratification. It's long been une femme's contention that Americans tend to be a guilt-ridden lot who don't allow themselves to fully experience satisfying, pleasurable experiences (and nowhere is this more true than when it comes to eating). Hence we've become gratification junkies. We deny ourselves good bread with butter and binge on crappy fast food. We tell ourselves that lovely cashmere cardigan is just too expensive and buy a bunch of cheap acrylic crap that itches and falls apart after a few washings. We want it NOW, we don't want to wait, when actually savoring the anticipation and finally getting just the right thing would be far more satisfying. A Sunday stroll through the park, an espresso sipped at a sunny sidewalk table, a bite-sized chocolate that is heaven on the tongue...the French seem to understand that little daily pleasures are necessities. (The movie Chocolat also makes this point quite succinctly.)

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Aha!

Just posted at The Sartorialist. Can une femme call 'em or what? Sart has more.

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Paris Style Report - L'Automne

Rue de Bac at dusk.

When it comes to style, Paris can be as diverse as any American city. Just as you'll see very different looks on women in the Upper East Side vs. Soho, or in Beverly Hills vs. Santa Monica, you'd be hard pressed to find a single overriding Parisienne style. Gala Darling points out some common themes, but when Chicamericaine commented on an earlier post that the woman's hair looked very "16th arr.," I immediately knew what she was talking about.

As we happened to visit during an unusually warm few days, what we mostly observed people wearing was probably more of a summer-to-fall transitional layered look, less vraiment autumnal than might have been seen had temperatures been cooler. Some popular looks spotted on women:

• Narrow jeans or trousers tucked into knee-high boots (both low and stacked heels)
• Patterned or brightly colored tights on women of all ages. (Including one 60-ish woman at Ladurée doing a very Pat Field kind of look with black skirt and jacket, flaming long red hair, lipstick-red belt and tights, black patent ankle boots and bag.)
• Subtle makeup - no raccoon eyes or goopy gloss (some exceptions to this, but a more natural look predominates)
• Bubble hem, patterned and other distinctive coats
• Lots of patent leather shoes and bags
• Shoulder bags with outside pockets (very practical!)
• Scarves, scarves, scarves. Mostly lighter weight due to the weather, but still ubiquitous, and tied easily and casually
• Heels, but not teetering stilts. Most heels I spotted were either chunky, or 2-3" walkable heights. Low-heeled loafers were quite common with trousers.

In the shops, we spotted lots of greys, purples, currants, cranberries and all variants thereof. But I think there must be a city ordinance that every shop must feature one of these in their window:

The Rabbit Fur Vest seems to be poised to be the must-have item for Fall/Winter.

One big difference that I noticed between some of the more well-to-do older women in Paris and their counterparts in the US was that you don't see the same level of obvious cosmetic surgeries among les Parisiennes. I didn't see any "trout pout" or taut, stretched faces, or cheekbone implants. Rather, I saw women who are well-groomed and who seem to be unashamed to look their age (including some wrinkles), dressed well and often in current styles, yet without appearing to want to look like their teenage daughters. Of course there were also many of the skirt-suited, chunky-heeled, more classically turned out femmes as well, representing that style impeccably. Another difference was hair. I got to the point that I could spot American women by their "done" hair. Les Françaises don't seem to go in for a lot of styling or products, hair is more natural, and relies on a good cut or a loose pony tail or chignon if longer. Messy hair isn't a negative; many women looked as if they hadn't bothered to comb or brush since waking up. (That bit of French style might be harder to translate to some parts of the US; I can see it being regarded as "unkempt looking" for women working in corporate environments.)

Ultimately, what I've taken away from observing les femmes Parisiennes is:

• Wear what you like, and wear it with confidence.
• Don't be afraid to look your age.
• Perfection isn't natural; embrace your individuality.
• Have fun!

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La Musique

Mon mari was determined that we not leave Paris without this CD, which was released early last week. Highly recommended for jazz lovers! You can purchase here (currently backordered). Or, have a listen on Anne's MySpace page, and get upcoming concert info (for those of you lucky ducks in France).

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Good Times

Just have to brag a bit...last night we had dinner with the fabulous Wendy B, who is every bit as gorgeous, intelligent, funny and vivacious as her bloggy self. Wendy presented me with my engraved Diana necklace and and blue topaz earrings; both are stunning. (I'll have pics later.)
Dinner at Nobu was a real treat. Wendy got carded (for real!) by the other-worldly waitress, much sake was consumed, and les plats poissons were amazing.

Getting to meet other bloggers and blog readers has been one of the best parts of this trip!
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Foulard de la semaine

A walk in the park, while wearing "A Walk In The Park."

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Can Someone Explain To Me...

Why people would stand in line before the doors even open to shop at Abercrombie & Fitch??? Is it just for the opportunity to see some beefcake up close, or is there supposed to be something special about the clothes?

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How I Want To Dress When I Grow Up...

From The Sartorialist. Can you say, "timeless, ageless, casual elegance?"

Au revoir, Paris...bonjour New York!

Maman et bebe tres charmants.

I have much more to post about Paris: the museums, the food, the style, and my general impressions, but things have moved so fast that I neeed to organize my thoughts and present them in some coherent manner. Plus it's very frustrating to not be able to make the proper French characters, thanks to a limited laptop keyboard.

We left Paris very early yesterday morning; the sun wasn't yet up and the city was just beginning to stir. (Traffic on the highway going into town however, even at that early hour was as bad as the 405, glad we were going the other direction!) Flight was long, but mostly smooth, and I watched a few movies. (Another aside, if you haven't yet seen Young At Heart, you must add to your Netflix queue now!)

We arrived in Manhattan into the snarl of Friday afternoon mid-town traffic. It took almost as long to get from the tunnel to our hotel as the previous leg from the airport to the tunnel. Bien sur, our room wasn't ready yet, so off for a stroll in Central Park (and to find a hot dog for mon mari) we went. I don't think we could have asked for nicer weather!

Back in the Middle Ages and Renaissance in Europe, there was a concept called the Great Chain of Being, which was the basis for the class system. One was not supposed to aspire to rise above one's God-given place in life, nor dress or live above one's station, or risk being hit with a Sumptuary Tax. Well, thanks to hubby's company's travel department, we are staying in a room that is well above our station (and normally would been quite above our budget). So this is how the other half lives...

After marvelling at our lodgings (everything is controlled from a panel on the bedside, even the night light, radio, temperature, humidity) we unpacked and headed off to meet Bonnie Ann for drinks at the Algonquin. Her friend MaryAnn soon joined us, and we had a wonderful time hearing about Bonnie Ann's latest trip to England and her days with the Royal Shakespeare Company. Olivier who writes Stuff Parisians Like blog was in town and possibly showing up later, but at any rate we were quite sorry that our dinner reservations were so early and that we had to leave their lovely and vivacious company so soon.

Dinner at Insieme was just the thing after lots of rich French food; I had a couple of appetizers from the contemporary side of the menu, but everything looked fabulous. By the time we'd finished dinner, we'd been up for about 21 hours, so in the city that never sleeps, we had collapsed into bed by 10 pm.

Today we're off to the Frick Collection and possibly the Whitney, and then tomorrow we'll hit
the MOMA to see the Van Gogh exhibit.
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Les Scenes de Paris

Une femme dans Place de Vosges.

The weather has turned from Indian summer to a more climate typique pour Paris. Il pleut aujourd'hui. (Which I'm enjoying as well, am getting a little autumn fix!) Have lots to post about, including getting to meet the lovely and gracious Chicamericaine, but it's the morning of our last full day in Paris, so we're going to be up and out the door soon. I'll leave you with some more pics.

Near the Marais.

Park on the way to Musee Marmottan.
Musee Carnavalet gardens

Sunset, Tuesday evening.

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Advanced Style

A friend just turned me on to this new (for me, anyway!) street style blog, Advanced Style. Prepare to be inspired by these stylish men and women.
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Le Shopping

Mon mari exclaims, "it sparkles like bubbles in champagne!"

Well, it's a good thing the markets rebounded yesterday, as we did a bit of shopping. We spent a few hours wandering around Le Bon Marché, especially Le Grand Epicerie. (While we were perusing the wine section, a Frenchman who was also browsing says to us, "these are ridiculously priced, you can get at Monoprix for half the price!")

Even though I saw the 2.55 of my dreams in the Chanel window, I left LBM with only another Gerard Darel bag (this one in a muted bronze metallic, which goes with everything and which was still pretty reasonably priced). "Oh, this is the last one," the sales woman said to me, "VERY popular, they sell very quick!" I tried on a very cute pair of ankle boots that had a kickin' attitude (by Clarks, whoda thunkit?) but the zippers didn't stay zipped, so no sale. Mon mari purchased a set of battery powered salt and pepper grinders, which were on sale.

Walking back to the hotel, we stopped into a boutique with some beautiful jackets and scarves in the window, and I walked out with a gorgeous silk-wool shawl, dark olive with gold threads running through, which I ended up wearing out to dinner last night. We dropped the bags off at the hotel, and went to Fragonard to pick up some gifts. The very helpful (and pretty) sales woman actually talked the hubby into trying some new fragrances, (he's been a Polo man for a couple of decades) so he had something new to wear last night as well.

Thanks for materfamilias for the recommendation for Le Nemrod. We had a lovely lunch there (nice salads!) and it's a fabulous spot for Parisian-watching. I've been taking mental style notes, which I'll recap at the end of the week.

Today we're off to the Jaquemart-Andre, and Marmottan museums, and perhaps a stroll in the Bois de Bologne if time permits. A bientot!

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Room With A View

This is the actual view from our balcony! Oui, that's the Tour Eiffel in the center. Here's looking in the opposite direction:
That's Montmartre/Sacre Coeur in the distance. And here's looking north on Rue Bac,directly below us (Duchesse, there's an Eric Bompard store right across the street):
The weather is gorgeous...mid 70's and clear skies. It's supposed to cool down in a couple of days and we may get some rain on Thursday. We dropped off our bags (except for mon mari's which inexplicably missed our connecting flight and should be delivered any time now) at the hotel when we arrived early this morning, and headed first to Jardins Luxembourg.

Look at that light! Isn't is amazing?
We then wandered the neighborhood, and eventually wound up at Ile St. Louis for a scoop of Berthillon. But check out this scene...SO Parisian.

I think Bicycle Man and the others were waiting for the cafe to open.

My jet lag has been minimal this time. Don't know whether it was all the water I drank on the flight over, or the fact that I managed to sleep about an hour on the plane, but I've been going strong all day with only a twenty minute catnap a little while ago. Tomorrow we do some shopping and more wandering, and then Tuesday and Wednesday we hit the museums. Posting may be sporadic, but I'll do my best to update with highlights. Paris is as fabulous as ever!

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Ten Plus One

La Belette Rouge has tagged me for a meme, eleven things about moi:

1. Clothes Shop: Banana Republic, if only for the miraculous Jackson Fit trousers.

2. Furniture Shop: That's a tough one; we haven't shopped much for furniture in the last few years. My fantasy furniture comes from Roche Bobois.

3. Sweet: still remains the Chuao Spicy Maya chocolate.

4. City: Culver City, newest epicenter of LA cuisine and art galleries. When we first moved here almost 12 years ago, we used to joke that they rolled up the sidewalks at 6pm. Now it's a bustling weekend destination for movies and food. Now if only there was more shopping....

5. Drink: non-alcoholic - San Pelegrino. Alcoholic - Stoli martini or wine.

6. Music: jazz, mostly. Currently, I'm listening to this CD in my car.

7. TV Series: Mad Men!

8. Film: Diva.

9. Workout: Walking dogs twice daily, 20-30 minutes at a pop, and whatever exercises the physical therapist tells me to do, at least when I remember.

10. Pastries: In LA, pain au chocolat from The Little Next Door. In Paris, not sure yet. Think I'll have to do some more sampling. ;-)

11. Coffee: Nespresso Ristretto. Double espresso, no sugar.

Well that was fun! I'm tagging materfamilias, Potpourri Promenade (which I just realized I've neglected to add to my blogroll, an omission I will soon correct), Passage des Perles, and any other bloggers who want to participate. Just leave a link in the comments!

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Paris Prep - Packing Redux

We're actually about 2/3 packed for our trip! I started packing over the weekend in anticipation of a very busy week and an extremely early departure Saturday morning.

Last time, I brought way too much of everything: clothing, shoes and accessories. I ended up mostly wearing the same six items throughout the week, and some of the bulky items I'd packed "just in case" were just so much deadwood. This time I've edited somewhat, chosen mostly clothes that will be impervious to wrinkles (eliminating the need to pack a travel steamer), stuck with fabrics that are relatively lightweight/not bulky, and chosen a mostly black and grey color scheme (adding scarves for color). The weather report for Paris for next week seems to change day to day, so layers will be key.

Without further ado, here's what I'm hoping will get me through 5 days in Paris and 4 days in New York:

• 2 silk tanks for layering (one black, one graphite)
• 1 white tee shirt for layering
• 1 grey 3/4 sleeve cotton tee
• 1 black silk long sleeve tee
• 1 black silk scoop neck tunic
• 1 black cashmere v-neck
• 1 shorter black lightweight wool cardigan
• 1 longer grey hooded wool cardigan
• 1 pair black wool Banana Republic trousers
• 1 pair charcoal jeans
• 1 pair black jeans
• 1 Chico's Traveller's Jacket, black
• 1 Chico's Traveller's knee-length skirt, black (don't laugh, these dress up easily, can be washed in the sink, and this jacket/skirt combo is one of the most flattering ensembles I own)
• 2 longer necklaces to dress up the Chico's
• Ecco mary janes
• Ferragamo plain black pumps
• 3 favorite Hermès scarves
• 1 oblong warmer scarf
• small vintage Chanel bag for dressy evening
• casual cross-body messenger bag
• packable long microfiber raincoat

Wearing/carrying for travel days:

• black jeans
• black tee shirt
• black silk v-neck sweater
• green pashmina
• black "1803" loafers
• black Miu Miu convertible bag (can be worn crossbody or carried for a dressier look)
• black leather walking coat

Okay, so that seems like a lot, but most of it rolls up and doesn't take up a lot of space. I have to save room in the suitcase for souvenirs, after all.
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Paris Prep - Five More Days!!!

I'm starting to get those happy butterflies in my stomach.

Hmmm...

From Kamel at Style and the City Paris, it appears that Sasha Baron Cohen's latest incarnation is Bruno the Hairdresser, spotted at Paris Fashion Week. Read more about it here and here.

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Essentials - Bags and Shoes

Earlier this week, I delved into my differences with some of the published stylistas about what constitutes a wardrobe must-have. Though they may be a good starting point, other people's lists often don't take into account lifestyle or climate, and we ultimately have to develop our own. It took me a lot of trial and error to suss out my own list, especially when it comes to bags and shoes.

Though I'm a notorious bagaholic, if I had to narrow it down to my "can't-live-withouts," they would fall into three categories.

First is the workday bag/briefcase substitute. This bag should be able to hold everything you'd normally carry, plus a files and/or a laptop. Handles long enough to sling over the shoulder or a shoulder strap are critical for me. I'd recommend a neutral color without a lot of trendy hardware or frou-frou details, but it needn't be stodgy. Look for good quality of materials and construction; this bag will get a lot of hard wear. Here are some options from Cole Haan that would do nicely:
Aerin satchel in Dark Aubergine, $425,


Or Dark Anthracite. Both of these are great neutrals.

This Box Tote ($475) has a nice bit of equestrian detailing, and also holds a laptop.

Category two is the weekend bag. I currently have a good variety of bags that I'll rotate through, but if I had to pick one essential style, it would be a cross-body bag. When I'm out with the munchkin and/or dogs, having both hands free is a must. I also plan to take a cross-body bag on our upcoming Paris trip. When you're on your feet all day, it really makes a difference, and according to my physical therapist, is much, much better for your back and posture.

Category three is a smaller, dressier evening bag. When push comes to shove, it has to be one I can wear over a shoulder. When you have a drink in one hand and a potentially messy canapé in the other, there's nothing left with which to wrangle that clutch. Style mavens often insist any stylish bag wardrobe must include a Chanel 2.55, but I say Feh! They're rarer than hens teeth and cost a bloody fortune. There's a whole world out there of affordable evening bags, so find one that's the right style and size for you. My advice is to skip the ones with excessive beading or other detailing; those will be the first bits to show wear.

Where shoes are concerned, comfort is non-negotiable for me. That doesn't mean I chug around in orthopedic granny shoes; there are plenty of comfortable and cute options these days. These Ecco shoes are just about my favorite pair, combining great style and walkability.

A pair of great-looking, classic flats is another of my shoe-ssentials, and they don't get any more classic than these Audrey mary janes from Ferragamo. Unlike a lot of the ballet flats out there now, these are very flattering on, and don't make your feet look like Daisy Duck's.

If black is too boring for you, Ferragamo offers this style in different materials and colors each season. I also have a pair in chili red patent. (And they are available in Wide widths!)

One area where I agree with the style book writers regarding must-have footwear is a black leather, pointy-toed, stiletto heeled pump. Now my style may be more conservative/classic than some, but this is the pair I turn to when I want to look casually elegant, regardless of what else I'm wearing. Spend good money for these, and if they have a leather sole, take them to the shoe repair for rubber half-soles (and a rubber heel if they come with a plastic one...it's appalling how many pricey shoes do). My pair are Ferragamo's again, and I know I'll be wearing them for decades.

With our Mediterranean climate, sandals can be worn for several months out of the year. Mine have to multi-task.

These sandals by Sofft are dressy enough for the business casual office or an evening out, and comfortable enough to wear to walk the dogs.

But we do get some rain and cold weather, too. During those months, a pair of Stuart Weitzman short boots similar to these are my most frequently called-upon footwear.

Whatever shoes are must-have's for you, my suggestion is don't skimp on quality. Well made shoes will be more comfortable, will last longer, and can more easily be refurbished by a good shoe repair person. Think value, not price.
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