Mid-Century Mania – Channeling the Style

But first, a disclaimer…

Though I’ve been somewhat over this ground before, I just wanted to reiterate that despite my recurring infatuation with some elements of mid-century style and fashion (and the TV show Mad Men), I am in no way nostalgic for or advocating a return to the sexism, racism and retrograde gender roles of that era.  I grew up during a time when roles for women were still limited either by laws or tradition, when women sometimes couldn’t get a credit card (let alone a mortgage) in their own name, and when it was considered just the natural order of things for men to be paid more, for pregnant women to be fired once they started to show, for a “career woman” to be seen as a sad oddity, for women to be taught that they were nothing without a husband and children, for divorcées or never-married women to be viewed with suspicion and hostility.  One of the reasons that I like Mad Men is that it doesn’t tiptoe around those issues or the blatant sexual harassment that many women encountered on a daily basis, and I’m glad the show is drawing a younger audience as well, as I think it’s something that younger women need to understand.  For a feminist take on the show, see Feministing’s Mad Men Mondays here.  (h/t Sidewalk Chalk.)
Nor am I hoping that girdles, garters, starched petticoats or corset-like bras stage a comeback.  Une femme is all about The Comfortable and if it hurts, pinches, chafes, digs in, gives you a rash, or keeps you from standing/sitting/walking/moving in a normal way, I say chuck it.  The kind of constrained femininity required by some of those fashions is beyond what most of us are willing to endure on a daily basis.  

So without squeezing oneself into some Heavy Artillery underpinnings, here are some ideas to inject a bit of that mid-century style and glamour into a modern wardrobe. (I’m going to tackle the more mainstream looks in the first post or two, then hit the Bohemian Beat in a separate entry.) 

1.  They Don’t Call Them Classics For Nothing…

  • Chanel-style “lady” jackets worn over a sheath dress or straight skirt. If they match the skirt or dress, all the better.  This one from Talbot’s works with jeans (add a brooch or three to invoke mid-century), but would also look great with a grey sheath dress.
  • (Casual) Levi’s 501’s cuffed and worn with penny loafers or saddle shoes.  (Like the ones from Cole Haan, right.)
  • (Casual) A button front blouse knotted at the waist.
  • Ankle length, straight slacks (trousers), fitted, in solid or prints.
  • A shirtwaist dress with a fuller skirt
  • A crewneck cardigan, just-below-the-waist length and fitted.  Bonus points if you wear draped over the shoulders.  Double bonus points for a sweater clasp.
  • A fitted v-neck sweater over skirt or slacks
  • A beaded sweater.
  • Bonus points if sweater color matches skirt or slacks
2.  Les Bijoux (I’ve focused on mostly pearl jewelry, as that’s what I most remember my mother, grandmother and other women wearing.  Diamonds and other gems were more often reserved for evening wear or more dressy occasions.)
  • Brooches!  These shown from Beladora 2.  (Links here, here and here. Use discount code PSEU for a 10% discount on these or any other items at Beladora or Beladora 2.)

  • If that shorter single or double strand of pearls has been languishing in your jewelry box, time to pull them out.  Don’t be afraid to wear both a strand of pearls and a brooch (see pic at top of post).

  • Earrings:  for daytime, forget the dangles or the itsy bitsy studs.  Fewer women had pierced ears back then, and clip earrings were the norm.  Hair was often worn up or pulled back from the face, so earrings were meant to be seen. 
Earring links here, here , here and here. (Don’t forget your discount code PSEU for 10% off, and remember that a jeweler can convert clips to posts or the reverse.)
  • Remember, that by mid-century style rules, Matching is Good.  So go ahead and wear those matching earring/necklace/bracelet sets.
  • Wristwatches – small, bracelet watches.  If leather, keep straps thin and watch face small. 

3.  Scarves
  • As an accent, smaller scarves were worn tied simply and snugly around the neck.

    • Larger silk squares underneath coats or sweaters for warmth.  Tie ascot style to channel Equestrienne Betty. 
    • Larger silk squares would also be worn over the hair and tied under the chin to protect the elaborate hairdos.  Best worn in close proximity to a ’57 T-bird, top down, natch!

    Well, these are just a few ideas for adding some mid-century style to your mix.  Do you have some mid-century pieces that you wear regularly?  Or ideas you’d like to try?

    On deck: Eveningwear, Bags and Shoes!

    ~
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    23 Comments

    1. I love Mad Men and can’t wait for the next series (think we’re a bit behind over here), I tend to slouch around in jeans most of the time – though I do like to wear them with a cropped navy/black print Marc by Marc Jacobs jacket with great big buttons that is quite late 50s/early 60s in style and could pass for mid-century. I live in a fifties mansion block so am more inclined towards mid-century homewares.

    2. I adore the last pair of pearl earrings you posted.

      Oh girdles – I can still remember my mother inching hers on every morning, huffing and puffing till she was pink in the face, thank God for the gym

    3. Pseu, I have been wearing 1950s beaded sweaters with classic bottoms since I was about 35…just such a beautiful look, I didn’t care if it looked different back then. Also have been wearing swing coats, preferably vintage, for years, starting with the black velvet one that belonged to my grandmother. And the earrings of the era, I’ve done that for awhile, too, but found I have to be more careful with that…it has to look very purposeful, or else it just looks odd to people who don’t “get it”. On the other hand, I can usually live with that!

    4. I’m afraid I’m unable to separate the look from the mores of the time. I can’t understand why anyone would want to go there.

    5. Sweater clasps! I’d forgotten all about them. What’s next, circle pins? I do like some of these looks, so I’ll probably pick and choose, especially from the accessories. Did you see that Vogue featured Hermes scarves in one of its spreads this month?

    6. Saddle shoes! I am so thrilled that it is okay to wear them again (meaning: people will not look at you as though you’re either wearing a costume or living in a time warp).

      And on the other end of the glamour spectrum…head scarf wraps ala Grace Kelly. Oh lala.

    7. very informative and charming post!

      please check out my blog when you get a chance!

      goodbadnfab.blogspot.com
      the style and musings of a fashion lawyer living, playing and shopping in LA.

    8. This is fabulous, Dej! I can’t wait to re-read it when I get home from work and have some time to think about it.

      The socioeconomic/racial/sexism aspects of “Mad Men” shocks me every single time, especially those early shows in the first season. I was born in 1966 and was fortunate to take liberation for granted.

      I do not understand what is meant when someone says, “I am not a feminist.” It places me at a loss for words. The world of “Mad Men” is Thoreau’s words come to life: “The mass of men live lives of quiet desperation.”

    9. Of course I’m loving those pearl pieces, thank you! I agree with Toby, in fact, all clothes (on sylish women) fit. (My mother never could understand baggy clothes.)

      I’ve got quite a bit of Mad Men jewelry, but my favourite is an enamel dragonfly brooch I remember on my mother’s silk shirtwaists in the ’50s.

      Are you not just crazy to see how Betty dresses as the ’60s proceed?

      My sister was 13 yrs older than I, a young copywriter then. She said there was terrific sexism but also a benevolent paternalism that protected ‘the girls”. And yes, I’m glad those times are over.

    10. What a great post Pseu and thanks for the Beladora2 links.
      I grew up in the era when there were certain jobs that my mother just couldn’t qualify for so I love the Mid-Century look but not the mindset!
      Guess who’s providing Mid-Century jewelry for a Mad Men star for the Mad Men premier tonight….now, I just hope that she wears our stuff!

    11. I graduated from high school in 1960.

      I am not going back there. Clothes, life, and the expectations of young women were narrow and constricting. No way.

      Spend some time watching old movies–Imitation of LIfe, The Best of Everything, Marjorie Morningstar. There was a major rebellion brewing in the late 50s.

    12. I am so envious you get season 4 this month! Don’t tell me a thing I’ll have to wait longer!! The attraction to Mad Men is the story, clothes and progress!

      Love the ideas and oh charms and scarves I don’t know where I’d be without them.

    13. Like Sal, I own a majority of the items that were listed. I don’t necessarily wear them in the way mentioned (mostly using updated accessories to keep the look current). The styles of these items work well for my hourglass figure. I regularly wear sweaters/pull overs ontop of a trumpet/pencil-ish skirt with a wide belt at the waist and heels. Are you going to cover other items such pocketbooks (LOL) and shoes? Love this series!

    14. I remember this time. I hope it never comes back, as it won´t. It might give inspiration for modern designing, but I prefer the era we are living now. On the furniture side, I would definitely choose the one produced in 2010, than an original from the fifties. In my opinion, we are creating history n o w , and we should favor the design of this time. No need to live in the past ; ) !

    15. I’m guessing that those of us who actually lived through those times are less amused by the series. I graduated high school in 1963, so I remember the hostility towards women very well. The comments on Feministing are quite perceptive, but there are any number of women who will say, “I’m not a Feminist”. What are they thinking? Many women don’t realize that there were more female doctors, lawyers and other professional women in the 30’s than there were in the 50’s. So it’s possible for a culture to retreat. We can’t assume the gains women have made over the past 50 years will all stay in place.

      That said, I do like some of the fashion I’m seeing now. Clothes that are somewhat fitted (but NOT tight) are very nice. The earrings are pretty, but I’ve never been able to tolerate clips.

    16. At first I really got into the Mad Men, but then my husband watched an episode with me and became really depressed. He was born in 1960, grew up at army bases around Canada (his father was a career officer), and the show reminded him of all the abuse, hypocrisy and wife-beating that was perfectly acceptable at the time. That’s when we stopped watching the show. I search for their outfits on the Internet sometimes and I love the style but that’s it.
      The other day we watched Hitchcock’s Birds again (the peaceful scenes) and I was fascinated by Melanie Daniels in her perfect pencil skirt, swing jacket with bracelet sleeves, long gloves, classic heels, that cream fur-coat (my MIL had one just like that). My ideal look (unfortunately not wearable where I live).

    17. Toby Wollin – yes, nothing was worn intentionally baggy.

      LuxeBytes – thanks so much! Yes, it’s always saddened me that feminism has garnered such negative connotations among so many women, especially young women.

      That’s Not My Age – your jacket sounds really cute and perfect for working into a mid-century look. Le monsieur and I were joking last night about re-doing our kitchen with funky patterend linoleum counters to get into the mid-century decorating trend.

      Sal – I thought of you when I mentioned the shirtwaist dresses with full skirts…that’s your look for sure!

      Tabitha – aren’t those earrings just gorgeous? Even slender women wore girdles. I can’t imagine squeezing into one!

    18. Maravonda – beaded sweaters have always been a favorite of mine! I used to be able to find them pretty regularly in thrift stores back in the late 70’s and early 80’s, then I think they caught on a bit and got snapped up right away. I’m going to keep my eyes peeled for some, think I need to get one or two back into my repertoire…

      dana – that’s ok, I get it. I’m that way about the 70’s. Hated them then, hate them now.

      Sewing Librarian – I was surprised to find so many sweater clasps when I googled them! Which Vogue was that, the July issue? I’ll have a look; thanks for the tip!

      Melissa – I love those saddle shoes too, though I’m holding out for a brown and white pair.

      goodbadnfab – thanks! I’ll check out your blog.

      Duchesse – yes, and while I’d never go back to *tight* clothing, it’s almost always more flattering when clothes skim our contours. That brooch sounds fabulous. I’m looking forward to seeing how all of the women dress as the decade progresses!

    19. Belle – that was SO COOL to see Christina Hendricks in those amazing Beladora pieces!!!

      Susan W H – I agree! In fact, I think that undercurrent is bubbling just below the surface in Mad Men. We all know it’s there, but the characters can’t see or recognize it. Imitation of Life is one of the best movies ever.

      metscan – you have a very modern aesthetic and enjoyment of the present. But you do mix some antiques with your modern pieces, yes?

      Make Do Style – thanks, and I promise not to publish any spoilers!

      aaonce – yes, many of these styles are great for women with hourglass figures! Yes, I’m working on the shoes/bags/etc. post for next week.

    20. Rita – what you say is very true about culture retreating. I see a certain element of our culture that would love to turn back the clock to those times. I worry that if our economy continues to flounder that those ideas will have an easier time gaining a foothold. I’m with you on the fitted-but-not-tight styles too.

      Hostess of the Humble Bungalow – no poodle skirts for me either!

      Tanya – I’m sorry that your husband’s experience was like that, but it’s true that spousal and child abuse was much more accepted back then. Yes, the clothes in The Birds and some of Hitchcock’s other movies from that era were gorgeous. I love many of the pieces that Grace Kelly wore in Rear Window too.