Expert Testimony
I’ll admit to being something of a style book junkie. I probably have a dozen in my own library (below are some of my favorites). I’ve also had the good fortune to benefit from the knowledge and training of AICI image consultants Imogen Lamport and Karen Karlsen in person, and most recently had a comprehensive Personal Color Analysis from Julia Dupps at Wish Wardrobe Consulting. I’ve been inspired by each of these as well as blogs by stylists and aestheticians, and have been grateful for the ideas and guidelines they provide.
But consensus, that’s another thing altogether. Reading various style books and blogs, one often encounters conflicting advice. Some say black is forever chic, others say that most women should never wear black. Some say that women over ___ should never wear skirts above the knee, while others say it depends on your legs and your style. Some insist that each person has a very specific color palette that will make them look their best, and other say that color is purely about personal preferences. Or while you might agree with 80% of what a particular style guru has to say, you know some of it is just WRONG for you. (An example of that last one: I love you, Tim Gunn, but wearing a belt does not “create a waist,” it just makes me look like a sack of potatoes with a rope tied around the middle.) If you’re one of those women who has a strong sense of her own style, this probably isn’t an issue. But if your body, life and/or style are in transition and you’re looking for help, how do you sort through it all?
I think back about the one time I served on a jury (called often, chosen rarely). It was a civil case involving a car accident, and the plaintiff and defendant each brought in their own expert witness to testify about the probable causes and results of the accident. As one might imagine, their expert opinions diverged considerably, which serves to remind me that experts in any field are not necessarily wholly objective and unbiased. With regard to style experts, they are informed by their own taste, their own culture, and even their own physical characteristics. In fairness, they are often designated “experts” because of their unique viewpoint.
Case in point: Charla Krupp of the (oft-divisive) “How To Not Look ______” style books, insists that pale pink lipstick is best for women of a certain age, while Ines de la Fressange says women of a certain age should never wear pink lipstick. And I say, let’s examine the evidence. Look at Krupp’s coloring (blonde, fair), and look at de la Fressange’s (dark, olive). Of course pink lipstick will look great on one and probably terrible on the other. We all have a tendency to project our own experience, and it’s certainly not a stretch to imagine that’s partly responsible for the disparity of opinion on this particular issue. (I’m not saying that every stylist/image consultant does this around every issue, but when I start to see words like “always” and “never” my antennae start to twitch.)
Going back to the courtroom analogy, it can be easy to view the anointed style experts as Judge and Jury, when in reality they’re just offering informed testimony. We each have to be our own one-woman jury, weigh the evidence presented and render our own verdict. Fortunately, we have a wide variety of options beyond “guilty” or “not guilty” (or “do” or “don’t”) and have the ability to make nuanced choices based on our own taste and judgement.
Style advice from the experts can help us see with fresh eyes, get out of a style rut, and provide inspiration and helpful guidelines. My motto these days is “tools not rules.” I’m learning to use expert testimony as a starting point rather than a hard stop.
Do you enjoy style books and websites? Are there any that you’ve found particularly helpful?
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Excellent article! I have consulted many books, articles, blogs in my eternal quest for style advice. Experience has taught me to take what is helpful to my own personal situation. For example, I love yellow but since I have dark hair and fair skin, it has a tendency to make me look a little sickly. Not to be defeated, I incorporate it away from my face but still enjoy wearing it! Recently discovered Cindy Johnson and her BOOM product line. Haven’t tried it yet but I LOVE her philosophy on her website. Needless to say, your blog has been of ongoing assistance! THANKS!
Thank you, Mary! Cindy Johnson is fabulous. I tried and reviewed (positively) her Boomstick product a while back.
Since entering the blog-world a couple of years ago, I find the only time I pick up a fashion magazine is when I’m at the hairdressers. There are more real life style examples and inspirations to be found among my peers on the web, which has helped me feel more confident about my choices…thank you for your contributions!
I agree that blogs are so much more helpful than magazines these days in showing real-life, real-woman style. Glad to hear you’re feeling strong in your own choices!
My goodness, my style book library is bursting at the seams…but Ines’s Parisian Chic is the one I flip through almost daily, not only for style tips, but for her “getting to know Paris” tips, too.
I devour ALL the fashion monthlies (ALL), have style books galore, carefully note the best recommendations, then throw out all the advice and do it my way! What is wrong with this picture?
SarahBeyond, there’s absolutely nothing wrong with doing it your way! If you enjoy reading style books and monthlies, regardless of whether you “use” what’s in them, what’s the harm? 🙂
I’m a style-book junkie too (although I don’t *yet* own A Guide to Elegance – will fix that pronto). Your analysis is so spot-on. We are still left to sort out and decide what best suits us. Like Pam said, I rely on blogs like yours, hers, and many others, to help me figure out what’s most flattering.
Charla Krupp just passed away, from cancer, at age 58 – I was shocked to read it, as she always appeared so lively.
I’m so sorry to hear about Charla Krupp, had no idea. That’s much too young.
While so much of the “Elegance” book is dated now, it really is a window into how women used to create great style with fewer pieces.
Patti: B/f you buy, this book was written in the early ’60s, so dated (and even then Mme. Dariaux occupied a very rarified perch). Enjoyed it as an artifact of the times and it’s a keeper on my shelf, but it is of its time.
pseu: Great point that the stylists see the world through their eyes. So do those of us reading; I’ve seen Sherri M. criticized for being “too California”, but I thought great. I also liked “Style Statement: Live by your own design”, which is a workbook.
Thumbs down: Nina Garcia; Izaac Mizrah, Kim Johnson. Ines writing for herself and her size 2-4 friends,, inconsistent and sometimes silly, but if she can get some women away from being too coiffed and made-up, OK.
Duchesse, I was thinking today about Rachel Zoe, and how she seems to style all of her clients exactly how she dresses herself. What I do like about Ines’ style is that she emphasizes simple, classic pieces and good fit. And a more natural look, yes.
Thanks for this. These ideas have been bouncing around in my head recently and I just could not pinpoint my perspective. I have had a few style books, enjoyed them. But, like you, always and never are red flags. If it were that easy, we would look like cookie cutter people. As we move through the decades, different issues dictate our style. Skin changes, hair color choices, and last but not least…..the disappearing waist line. I saved one belt from my belt days. It was expensive, that is the only reason. I look at it once in a while, smile, put it back in it’s keeper.
Corrine, you’re welcome. I agree that it doesn’t pay to get stuck in “always” or “never” land. Our bodies and lives change, and our style needs to move forward as well.
I used to shop more, read more, buy more. But then I used to be 25, too, and a size 6. Now I shop less and find that I miss that sense of what’s in the stores, even when I don’t buy. I agree that style books can be helpful, but are always about the writer’s agenda/personality. I’ve enjoyed 40 over 40 by by Brenda Kinsel, Stle Evolution by Kendall Farr, and Elsa Klensch’s Style (also a bit dated, but useful). Frankly, it’s the basics that form the bones of your style, not the season-to-season fashion that comes and goes: color, line, fabric.
Pearl, that’s a great point about the basics, and probably the best thing we can learn about a style foundation.
I am saddened by Charla’s passing at such a young age. I take her advice in “How Not to Look Old” with a large grain of salt, but I have always enjoyed her writing, going back to the glory days of Glamour when it was helmed by the great Ruth Whitney.
I own and like Kendall Farr’s “Style Evolution.” (Her immortal line, “Nothing says ‘I’ve given up completely’ quite like a pair of Crocs,” had me rolling on the floor.)
I read “Parisian Chic” (borrowed from the library) and picked up a few pearls of style wisdom from Ines. She inspired me to buy a classic short trench and a pair of Cons, though I went with Jack Purcells instead of the more usual Chuck Taylors.
Mercurygirl, I’d forgotten that line from Kendall Farr, great one. It is sad about Charla Krupp.
I never read style books, they don’t interest me at all but I love interior design books, I can’t get enough of them.
I love interior design books too, but don’t tend to buy or collect them. Just too far from our reality, I guess.
Wardrobe Strategies for Women – Judith Rasband – is a textbook and has a little about everything. She’s one who thinks you can wear any color by adjusting your makeup. Not so far off from the terrific advice Irenee Riter has on the web.
These days I’m liking Designing Women, the Art, Technique and Cost of Being Beautiful – Margaretta Byers, 1938. Love that in her tips for budgeteer shoppers she advises to steer clear of
“Fords” – the ubiquitous thing, style that everyone has available to them at all levels. This really resonated with me and explains why I don’t like dept. store shopping – can see too many variations of the same thing right then and there.
Those sound like fun and helpful books, will keep an eye out for them. I do like the “Ford” analogy.
Style books are wonderful, especially old ones. Mme. Dariaux’ book may not be practical but is a wonderful window into a certain way of life. However, of all my style books (including ones by the sainted Mrs. Head) the best and most worn is from 1981, “Hot Tips” by Frances Patiky Stein, who worked for Calvin Klein. It has been out of print for years but is readily available. I bought a second copy in case the first wore out. If I had a daughter, I’d make sure she and her friends had copies. Utterly timeless advice, still very relevant.
Marion, I haven’t heard of that book. Will be on the lookout, thanks!
I am a bit of a style book junkie myself…love those with a French flair and Inez’s book Parisian Chic sits beside my bed so I can pick it up and re read passages before bed.
I have started Lessons from Madame Chic by Jennifer Scott author of the blog The Daily Connoisseur and so far I am loving it!
I find that style and fashion books and bloggers help me refine my look.
Yours is one of my go to blogs for thoughts on the subject.
Hostess, I have Lessons from Madame Chic too, but haven’t started it yet. And thank you!
Dear Pseu. I love style books and have far too many of them. My current main favorites are: Style Evolution by Kendall Farr and Style Clinic by Paula Reed. Others that I refer to regularly are:Sam Saboura’s Real Style, Dress Your Best by Clinton Kelly and Stacy London, Closet Smarts by Emily Neill and The Science of Sexy by Bradley Bayou. Anything that features sections on body shape receives my attention. As for the black issue; I really don’t look good in it any longer. I am keeping only four black pieces: one pair of slacks, one pencil skirt, two jackets. These are very high quality pieces. Every other black item I have is being swapped out to grey or ivory. I just and feel better in lighter colors. Those color drapes don’t lie!
laurieann, thanks for the recommendations! I had such a hard time figuring out my body shape, was so glad to have Imogen help me clarify. I’ve really been trying to cut back on black but it was such a large part of my work wardrobe for so long, that’s a lot of replacing to do! Grey is my go-to now, and navy (when I can find that particular navy in my palette).
I’ve collected style books for many years, though last year I finally culled several I had “outgrown”. Among those I’ve held onto are French Chic and Italian Chic, now out of print, by Susan Sommers, a couple of the Chic Simple series from the 90s, Leah Feldon’s Dressing Rich and Dress Like a Million, and Brenda Kinsel’s 40 Over 40. My newest aquisition is the re-released How to Dress for Success by Edith Head, originally published in 1967. It’s great fun.
Marion, I have Hot Tips, too. Love it.
Susan G, I did like those Chic Simple books too, wish they’d update them!
I love style books too, and especially those of the genre that divides people into categories and then tell what you should wear (Metamorphosis and Fabulous You are two of this genre.) I guess the lure for me is to find a formula because I am not terribly good at style, although I love it. The trouble is I can never truly commit to one category. One day I say “I’m sporty” and that seems to fit. The next day I am convinced I am a classic, etc.
Ann, I recently found a copy of Metamorphosis (based on recommendations from some of the 12 Blueprints regulars), but haven’t really had a chance to delve in yet. Think I’m a “Soft Gamine,” but will read the whole thing. I don’t think we should have to fit ourselves into categories (though it does make shopping easier) but rather be able to dress to suit our moods.
I love style books also, but I do believe that this is the most well written and informative bit of information I have read in a long time. I too have experienced just what you are writing about; to the point of meltdown sometimes, and just have to quit reading. Thank you, maybe you should be in this business!!
Leigh, thanks, glad this was helpful!
Like fashion magazines, style books have always depressed me – they seem to be written by and for women who belong to club of which I am not a member, women who understand terms like “godet” and “welt pockets” and who are at ease considering the multiplicity of possible variations on a crisp white shirt (I tend to hyperventilate during this endeavor). These books also contain pictures of women whom I will never, ever, resemble, with the implication that they are what looks good and anything else (that is, me) is not. And, if I ever do, somehow, achieve a passing similarity, the look will have changed and I will be rather pathetically out of date (and the women in the photographs will shake their heads sadly behind my back). So basically, I hate style books and magazines, and in the interest of my mental health I avoid them. It is a compliment to you (a sincere one) that I read and enjoy your blog, and that I find you both sophisticated and approachable, and never depressing. “Tools, not rules” is a fine motto, and if you don’t mind, I will appropriate it as my own.
Marsha, thank you, that’s very gratifying. Yes, please use it. I’m sorry though that this has been an area that seems to have brought more angst than joy to your life. I hope you are able to enjoy expressing yourself through your style.
I also love Elegance, Parisian Chic, and Kendall Farr, as well as the Chic Simple guides and the Susan Sommers books. As they become dated, I find I love them even more. Some of the recommendations jolt the senses 10 or 15 years later, but many are surprisingly timeless, as the enduring popularity of Elegance shows. I think my granddaughters will get a big kick out of these books years from now.
Ann G., yes there is something about the “retro” aspect of some of these that seems more charming now. How nice that you’ll share them with your granddaughters!
One of my favorite blogs is Mai Tai. She also has wonderful scarf tying videos and a nice on line shop-Mai Tai’s Collection
cigalechanta, oh yes, Mai Tai’s blog is fabulous! She really knows how to work those classic pieces, and the scarves, bien sur.
Except for Simple Isn’t Easy, reading style books has always stressed me out. I found Goldsmith’s and Fine-Collins’ advice about uniforms to be incredibly liberating.
Jane W., another vote for Simple Isn’t Easy!
This post is so timely in my life. Of course, I love the style books and magazines and have received much needed help from style “experts”, but recently I became very frustrated with conflicting “advice.” Perhaps, I need to look at that advice through the authors eyes as you have here. I also do not think that women have to spend BIG BUCKS to reinvent themselves during middle age…the blogosphere helps so much and just takes a click. I have developed my own way of putting a style together, and there are so many (like yourself) with blogs who can help women without the need to spend hundreds for a seminar…which might not have even have the advice you need!! Excellent Post!
It’s true, we don’t need to spend a lot of money to have great style. There’s a lot of great information out there; we just need to sift through and hone it. Thank you!
You have inspired me to book my Mum and I on colour consultations -it’s taking place in a few weeks time and I am super-excited. Neither of us is particularly brave with colour and I tend to stick to trusted green and brown with the odd foray. Thanks so much for the inspiration.
Secret Squirrel, ooh how exciting! I hope it’s fun for you and sets you both off on a path of playing with color.
I agree with you. I think so much is personal taste and what we feel comfortable with. I see women that look great with light pink lipstick. I was always told that pink is an universal shade that looks good on anyone. But there are so many shades of pink. One may look great on one person but not on another. I agree we tend to project our own experience. Thanks for the great article.
so, thank you! It’s true, with almost any color, there are a myriad of options that will look right on different women.
I have a HUGE style book library but my books tend toward the “style statement” type of book and less on which shape and skirt length to wear. I used to love Trinny and Susannah and still think their advice is very good. I think the best thing to do is go to a major department store that carries things you like at or near your budget level (Nordstrom for me) and try lots of stuff on. Really look at yourself and see what things look good and makes you feel good.
Trying things on is probably some of the best style advice out there. And I would add, try things on *together*. Otherwise (as I’ve too often done) you can end up with a bunch of great pieces that don’t work with anything else. And it’s true, whatever we wear should *feel* good and like a true expression of ourselves.
I had never read a style book, until Ines’ Parisian Chic. I found a lot of good tips in there, but I also kept in mind that she’s very tall, and very slim – so that certain things, like white jeans all the time, weren’t going to work for me, no matter how great they look on her, or on her 17 year old daughter, who was the only model for the US version of the book. But, I do find that even Ines contradicts herself. She’ll say “wear very discreet jewelry, not a necklace and a bracelet” and then I’ll see a photo of her loaded with both? I also have found the blog world more helpful than any magazine or style book, especially in introducing me to new brands of clothing.
kathy, I agree that some of the style blogs out there provide more “real body/real world” style information than books written by stylists and models. It’s one thing to say “a v-neck sweater is a wardrobe essential,” but blogs will tell you which fit best, and who has them on sale!
I used to read every style book I could find; but once I began to decipher and settle into my own style, I stopped reading them. However, I still really enjoy reading blogs and watching style-related videos on YouTube. I think I continue to learn a lot by watching (or reading about how) other people work through the process. And I will occasionally look through a fashion magazine, for inspiration. But not nearly as much as before.
There are a few style books I have not thrown away and that I would re-read: The Triumph of Individual Style, Simple Isn’t Easy, Ten Steps to Fashion Freedom, and Style Statement. These books describe concepts that I’ve actually tried out and that worked for me. Not one of them contained a “wardrobe must-haves” list.
I found Charla Krupp’s book very annoying but I have to admit that some of her advice turned out to be true for me. (Switching to plastic eyeglass frames and lightening up my lipstick shades.)
Ms M, I have Simple Isn’t Easy on my list to find and read. Will check out the others. I still enjoy other people’s explorations of style, even though they might be far from my own.
Ms. M – These are my favorite style books too!
Honestly, I don´t read ( have not read ) any style books. I might read an article from a magazine just for entertainment ( from a stand ). I occasionally browse the shoes online.
Mette, I think you’re one of those women with a very strong sense of your own style. You know what you like or don’t right off.
Well stated. I seldom read style books, although I have a few on the shelf. At this point I go with what feels right, but love getting ideas from blogs and some web sites. And I can’t imagine giving up black and colored nail polish!
Style Crone, you have such a distinct and unique style, something that really could never come from a book.
What a fabulous post… I totally agree that we should take this style advice with a pinch of salt – I read many style books but more for tips and outfit inspiration!
I did that thing a while ago of identifying my body shape and decided it’s an hourglass (sounds ideal, but boobs with long skinny arms are a nightmare to dress). The UK What Not to Wear girls said that pencil skirts are perfect for hourglasses, so that’s the shape I decided I had to wear. Then I started my blog last year and started to photograph myself in my “perfect” skirt shape… and they looked AWFUL! I’d been wearing the wrong style all that time. I’ve now found the skirt shape I am happiest in (in fact I’m wearing it in my post today – full midi skirt) and it’s what I fel good in. My best tip: If you photograph yourself in your outfits and study the photo (not your reflection), I’m sure you’ll see yourself far more objectively. I believe that’s how you make up your own ‘rules’… and if you feel good, that’s really all that matters!
Catherine x
http://notdressedaslamb.com/
Catherine, you have such a fun style! I had such a hard time figuring out my own shape. I don’t know which shapes pencil skirts are supposed to be best for, but I do like how they look on me. I can no longer wear full or A-line skirts. Great reminder about the photographs too.
fabulous post! as a wardrobe stylist myself…i cringe anytime i hear someone say “always” or “never”…there are SO many factors that play into each and every individual…their coloring, their body type, their lifestyle…etc etc etc…
or when someone creates a “rule” of some sort…that we are all supposed to follow…a crisp white shirt doesn’t work for everyone…a belt accentuating the waist DOES NOT work for everyone…everyone does not look good in black…black is not always slimming…
i could go on and on…
the key…is to find your own personal style…to know what works for you…and only you…and celebrate that! and on a side note…this works at any budget… =)
elena, thanks! It must be fun to help people unlock their inner style.
Is there a style website I like and find useful? Why, this one of course. I also have a quite large collection of style/fashion books, including most of the ones mentioned. I am at the point that, when I see a new one, I tell myself that there is nothing in it I don’t already know….but I usually buy them anyway. Can’t help myself!
Jill Ann, why thank you!
I read a few style books a year ago, at the beginning of my personal style quest, and found them sort of confusing. All except Simple Isn’t Easy by Olivia Goldsmith. That one really spoke to me as it recommends creating a uniform and accessorizing it, perfect for me. A year into the quest I’m beginning to think most of already know what we need to do, just need some encouragement to gain confidence in making it happen.
I do think you’re right that style experts sometimes project their own preferences based on what makes them look good.
Susan, I really am going to have to pick up Simple Isn’t Easy. I think you’re navigating your way and finding your own style brilliantly.
Love this post. Food for style thought. I am a book junkie too, but that’s because textbooks on wardrobing make me better at doing PERSONAL styling. The ALWAYS, NEVER rules are poppycock. As style author Brenda Kinsel taught me, “STYLE TRUMPS ALL.” That is to say, your personal preferences win out in the end, not rules. But guidelines I can live with! For instance, color analysis is verrrry worthwhile. So is learning about fit and quality. Every woman is different in what she really cares about improving. I care more about color choices than elongating my legs, so I wear pink capris! I “chop up” my petite body in a mess of color instead of column dressing!
Pseu could care less about “creating a waist” and instead chooses to bypass that area. She is into color, so maybe her clothes and accessories are first and foremost chosen to compliment her pretty green eyes and creamy skin.
This is all just soooo personal and should be regarded as a continuing self-discovery process, not a burden to agonize over.
THIS IS FUN!!!!
Karen, it’s good to keep reminding ourselves that “Style Trumps All.” I try to achieve a balance between flattery and expression. And yes, if it’s not fun, what’s the point?? (am having such fun with my new colors!)
Hi Karen! Miss your blog! xxoo
I think the best way to get style ideas is to check out chic people we see on the street, however, sometime in the 80’s I bought a book called French Chic by Susan Sommers and it changed my fashion life.
Connie, that book is frequently mentioned as an inspiration. I will have to keep an eye open for it.
I don’t think I’ve actually purchased ANY style books of the advice variety, although I do occasionally read articles as they become available online. What little bit I know on the subject is truly through trial and error and sometimes, I’m mightily surprised.
Terri, I certainly don’t think that reading style books is in any way necessary to develop great style. I mostly just find them entertaining these days. What you’ve been doing, trial and error, is probably the very best way to really hone your style.
I also have collected quite a few books and will probably continue to do so. I think what I was looking for was help/ideas in finding my own style after spending my 20’s, 30’s and 40’s trying to look like what the fashion magazines said I should regardless of what I looked like or how I felt in a particular look. Now I really want to be comfortable in my own skin and clothes! Thanks to this blog I can and do wear scarves tied oh so fashionably.
Tara, I’m so glad you’ve been inspired to wear your scarves! It can be hard to sort our own tastes and best silhouettes; it’s certainly an ongoing process for me. Good for you for opting for what feels right *to you.*
Very interesting post ……. and I like the KISS principle when it comes to style…..don’t put it all on!!! I remember Mr Valentino saying that in his film. One thing I love about Europe…at any age one can have alluring style. Viva la France. Love your blog by the way.
Paris Rendez-vous,
Merci beaucoup, and yes, KISS works for me too!
Interesting post. When I first trained in Image consultancy in the late 80s the rules were very strict. If black was not your colour it was a no no. Over the years things have relaxed significantly and most of the advice is a guide line. A good consultant should be able to help you adapt your wardrobe and work with colours that you love even though they may not be your best. The ideal guide is to follow your intuition you usually know when you put on something if it makes your heart sing.
Chicatanyage, I remember those days of absolute “do’s” and “don’ts” and am very glad things have shifted toward more flexible guidelines. I agree that even “wrong” colors can be worked in. Style should be fun!
I read your blog a lot but have never commented. But for fun you have GOT to read Elegance by Kathleen Tessaro. It is a fiction book about a woman whose life is falling apart and she finds A Guide to Elegance in a used book store and decides she can save herself by following the advice given in that book.
Knowing nothing about the original I assumed that was part of the fiction…a made up book…until I loaned it to my mother and she remembered reading A Guide to Elegance as a teenager. Now I have her old copy beside the novel on my bookshelf. Funny!
I like to look at the way mannequins are styled for ideas. I also like to look at photos and posts to see how others put together outfits. I also read the style books but I do not follow any of it. I like the freedom to express myself according to my feelings for the day. For example I have a good friend who told me she was going to give a talk about style and design. I jokingly asked her if she wanted to borrow my white boots to make her presentation? I know What Not To Wear would probably throw them out but I like to take risks.
the curious reader and style lover in me enjoys books on this topic. it is interesting to learn what the “experts” and style icons think and do. if i admire a person’s style sense and they have written a seemingly good book on the topic, i am inclined to read it.
however, i end up taking any style advice with a grain of salt.
i love your motto! “tools not rules”
http://seenandsaid.blogspot.com/ Jane has the Eye.