Blame it on (the) Manhattan

Our first night in Las Vegas, we stopped into the Sinatra bar for a cocktail. I decided to try their special Manhattan, which includes among other ingredients, a black tea liqueur. It was fantastic. It was also about three times as much alcohol as I normally drink in one sitting.

Afterward we went wandering through the shops (which howdy-do are open LATE) and bien sur I wanted to stop at the Chanel boutique. I was idly perusing the shoes, when le monsieur pointed to one pair I'd been eyeing and said, "those are nice." (He'd had a Manhattan too, and has even less alcohol tolerance than I do.) I tried them on, and was surprised and delighted to find them quite comfortable.


Without further ado...

May I present the utterly classic ballet flats. I am so loving these shoes.

And at least I walked out without the jacket. Yes, jacket. It was blue and white classic tweed, cut like a blazer (narrow lapels, nipped in at the waist) and the sales associate insisted I try one on. It fit like it was Made. For. Me. Not boxy in the least. I almost swooned, it was that gorgeous and looked that good on. I still had enough brain cells functioning to remind myself that it was completely out of the question.

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Nautical and Nice

Can une femme call 'em or what? According to this article in The Wall Street Journal, "sailor shirts" are poised to be one of 2010's hottest trends. (h/t to Frugal Scholar from comments here, thanks Frugal!)

Fashion lines from Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci to Esprit and Comptoir des Cotonniers are bringing out the nautically inspired stripes for spring women's wear, and menswear designers including Michael Bastian and Burberry Brit are also going with the look. It's based on the boat-necked French marine pullover, which is traditionally worn by low-ranking sailors as they swabbed the decks and hence known in France as a marinière, or sailor-style, shirt.
....
This cyclical interest has long been a boon to Saint James, the French company that has made marinière shirts and sweaters since roughly 1850*. It makes a variety of styles for men, women and kids today, but the traditional men's sweaters come in two versions: The trim one known as the "matelot" is priced at $170. The "binic" is more generously cut "for if you enjoy life—if you are a little fat," explains the French Manhattan store manager, Brian Lebretton. It's priced at $215.

The slideshow that accompanies the article also illustrates that women with curves can wear these tops and look good (see esp. Elizabeth Taylor pic).


I ordered two different marinière tops, one from LL Bean, featured in last week's post, and one of the Saint James tops (this one, the "Huitriere") from BrittanyBoutique.com. I chose this style over the "traditional" one for the 3/4 sleeves and shorter length, and I'm happy with this choice. The fit is good, not too snug or baggy, and it seems to be a very well made piece. The fabric is sturdy, 95% cotton/5% elastane. This top is a good length for me at 5'1", so might appear more cropped on someone taller. Though pricewise it's not cheap, it's not anywhere near as expensive as some of the "designer" versions, and feels hefty enough to last. Here's the Saint James "Huitriere" top, styled for lunch with La Belette Rouge.

I'll post a review and pics of the LL Bean top next week.

*Had the article's author taken a moment to look at the label or tag on the sleeve, she would've seen "depuis 1859."
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Marinières, encore

I'm starting to see these *everywhere* now....

High end:

Tory Burch, $125.
Elizabeth & James, $195.

Cashmere:
Talbots, $129.

Talbots again, $129.

Wendy has asked me to find her "a tight one." My guess is this one would fit snugly, AND it has a bow!

Sonia Rykiel, $120. (Click on picture for linkydink.)
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Stripes Ahoy!

Une femme has been a bit obsessed with the marinière top lately.

Coco Chanel made it chic, and the look has endured despite those sometimes tricky horizontal stripes . But according to this article from the Guardian, one need not fear them (thanks, Rubiatonta!). Most of the traditional marinière tops have the narrow stripes that create the "ladder" effect which according to Imogen, will draw the eye up and down. Those of us with more curves than Mademoiselle above might want to wear these tops out rather than tucked in.
As with any iconic item, it's best to avoid a head-to-toe classic ensemble, which can look stodgy. Mix the classic pieces with some contemporary or whimsical touches to keep it fresh and easygoing.

Classic With A Twist - Marinière by deja pseu featuring J Crew

Whether you call it a marinière, fisherman's top or Breton stripe, the look is classic and options in many styles and price ranges are available. (Click on Shopstyle images below for more info.)

When it comes to any iconic item itself, une femme generally believes in sticking to the most traditional colors and patterns (in this case white or cream with a navy or black stripe). However if one is assez mince (as their sizing is très petite), the brown and grey Petit Bateu version shown in the Polyvore below is an interesting option. (Click on image for more info.)

Les Marinières by deja pseu featuring Calypso

And for the real deal:

Meridien fishing shirt from Brittany Boutique, EU 38.00.

(Anti-seasickness patch not included.)

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Test Driving the Tees: Results

For the sake of apples-to-apples comparison, I limited the entries to versions of white, v-neck, short-sleeved cotton (and cotton + lycra) tees. I also limited my selections to what I was able to find currently available online. I ordered the Petites version when available, assuming that the regular sizing would have similar length and fit on someone of average height. I didn't include the Talbots, Banana Republic or Gap tees, as I'd already described those here.

Ratings are in "femmes" from ♀ (yuk!) to ♀♀♀♀♀ (buy up as many of these as you can get your hands on!).

So without further ado, the results!

Caslon Cap Sleeve V-Neck from Nordstoms, $22.
Rating: ♀♀♀
Fabric: 100% Organic Cotton, light-to-medium bodied, very stretchy
Fit: Fitted, snug but not shrink-wrapped, good length - not too long
Construction: Hemmed sleeves and bottom, inset band at neck, tagless except for care tag.
Summary: If the fabric had been a little more substantial and opaque, I probably would have bought a couple of these, despite the cap sleeves (which are a bit longer than BR tees). The cut and fit are quite good, just a smidge too sheer and clingy pour moi. Younger and smaller-busted women might be fine with these.

Chico's "Lakota" tee, $19.
Rating: ♀♀♀♀
Fabric: 98% cotton, 2% lycra. Very soft, good body, excellent opacity.
Fit: Very good. Skims the body, not baggy or too clingy, elbow sleeves, v-neck is slightly curved, hits above the bra line.
Construction: Hemmed sleeves and bottom, inset band at neck, tagless except for care tag.
Summary: If this had been just couple of inches shorter, I would have given it five ♀'s. For someone of average height it would probably be perfect, hitting right at the hipbone. Very nice tee!

Target Merona Ultimate Tee, $8.99.
Rating: ♀♀♀
Fabric: 100% cotton, very light, sheer
Fit: Fitted, not too snug. A little long, but not bad, sleeves are short, but longer than most cap sleeves.
Construction: Hemmed sleeves and bottom, inset band at neck, tagless except for care tag.
Summary: I guess for $8.99 one can't expect substantial fabric. Encore, too sheer pour moi, but if you're OK with a less opaque fabric, this tee would be a great value for the price, very comfortable and cool, well-made.

j.jill elbow sleeve v-neck, $26. (In the interest of full disclosure, the white tees were on backorder until sometime in July, so I ordered the next lightest available color, "crocus" which is a pale lavender.)
Rating: ♀♀
Fabric: 100% pima cotton, medium weight, soft body. If the white fabric is the same weight it would have medium opacity.
Fit: Relaxed, a bit long
Construction: Inset band at neck, wide inset band on sleeves, hemmed at bottom, tagless except for care tag. The shoulder/sleeve and neck/inset seams have visible stitching on the outside, giving this tee a very casual look.
Summary: I was disappointed with this tee, especially for the price (highest of all reviewed). It has the look of something much cheaper, and I'd be surprised if this tee holds its shape after a few wearings and washings. The color was pretty, though.

Ann Taylor, $19.50.
Rating: ♀♀♀
Fabric: 100% cotton, very slightly ribbed texture, medium opacity
Fit: Fitted, a bit clingy due fabric. On the longish side.
Construction: Hemmed sleeves and bottom, inset band at neck, tagless except for care tag.
Summary: A decent tee, well-constructed, fabric has a nice feel. Too clingy for my taste, but someone with less (ahem) padding might like this one.

Norma Kamali for Walmart Organic Cotton, $8. (Note: I posted a picture of the grey, as the white version on their website was indistinguishable from the background.)
Rating: ♀
Fabric: 100% cotton, flimsy, low opacity.
Fit: Baggy, long.
Construction: Inset band at neck, hemmed sleeves and bottom, tagless except for LARGE BLACK care tag.
Summary: For the quality and fit, you could probably buy three men's undershirts for about the same price.

In general, it seems that almost everyone is cutting their tees longer and narrower than in prior seasons, and relying on clingy fabric for shape. The tees with higher opacity also have thicker and denser fabric, which may not be as cool in very warm and/or humid conditions.

For anyone looking for white summer tees, hope this helps!

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Le Must - The Perfect White Tee

One of those items that makes almost every Style Maven's "Must-Have List" for women is a "crisp white button-down shirt." Une femme says, "Must-have? Not necessarily." Bien sur, the white shirt is timeless and chic, but for many of us the button-down shirt gapes at the bust, develops wrinkles around the waist when we sit, and can look anything but crisp and soignée.

Une femme's answer to the classic white shirt during warmer months is a simple, well-fitting white tee. A few seasons ago, I discovered the Banana Republic Timeless Tee, a crewneck cotton tee that looks equally chic under a suit jacket adorned with layered necklaces or with jeans and a scarf. I've picked up one or two of these each year (which is about as long as I can keep them looking good).

While this is a perfect classic tee, there are times and ensembles that call for a v-neck, which is also for many of us a more flattering choice. But true v-necks seem to have been more elusive than Bigfoot these last few seasons, so I was thrilled to see one show up on the Banana Republic website recently. But unfortunately this tee is cut very differently than the crewneck: much longer, more fitted (read: very snug in all the wrong places, even after going up a size). In short, pas bon for short-waisted, curvy me. The Gap version was cut much the same, and the fabric flimsier.

Yesterday, on a whim I decided to stop by Talbot's to see what they might have to offer. Other than their fabulous bateau neck tee, I haven't really been impressed with their iterations of cotton tees. They tend to be cut on the shapeless side, and stretch out even more with repeated wearing and washing. However one of the two v-neck cotton tees they're currently offering has a whopping 11% lycra content, enough to keep the shape and fabric looking fresh. The fabric is light but has a substantial feel (critical for a white tee), and the fit, while not perfect, is much better than anything else I've found so far this year.

The vee is nice and deep, but still lands right above the top of the bra, and the curve adds a feminine touch. (They didn't have the 100% pima cotton version in the store, but I may order one just to compare the cut and fabric.) The sizing runs toward small (if you're unsure, go with the larger size, especially if you're full in the bust). And right now Talbot's is offering a special on all tops: buy one, get the 2nd at 50% off (through Sunday, 5/10)! Free shipping too.

Top photo from here.
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The Look for Less: The Roger Vivier "Pilgrim" Shoe

In 1967 Catherine Deneuve slipped them on to trek to afternoon assignations in Belle de jour. The "Pilgrim" pump by Roger Vivier, designed to be worn with 60's Mod fashion, quickly achieved iconic status. Four decades later, Inès de la Fressange makes them look fresh and chic again.

I'll confess, the first time I saw these shoes, they were sitting on a department store shelf, uninspiring in color (navy?) and devoid of context. I dismissed them out of hand as frumpy and outdated, something for the wealthy birdlike matrons who tottered around Neiman Marcus on weekday afternoons. But recently I've been seeing them worn with more updated ensembles and they've grown on me.

However, icons don't come cheap. These shoes now retail for over $500 US per pair.

Maybe someday I'll crack open my piggybank and purchase a pair, but not this year, not in this econony. Bien sur, these "inspired by" styles will never have the cachet of the real thing, but some are quite cute and all can be had for a fraction of the price les vrais.

Kenneth Cole:


Franco Sarto:



Stuart Weitzman:

Me Too, Talbots and Vaneli:

Hey Pilgrim! by deja pseu on Polyvore.com


More Vaneli:

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Il fait chaud!

In just a few days, temperatures here have jumped from the 50-60F range into the low 90's. Someone asked me last week, "how to you stay stylish in warm weather?" My response was "it's not easy." I've never been comfortable exposing acres of skin (a little mystery, c'est meilleur, n'est-ce pas?) and dressing appropriately for work, even in this kind of heat, doesn't favor skimpy or overly casual wear.

One mainstay of my warm weather arsenal is a simple, chic white cotton tee. My favorite is from Banana Republic, either in crew neck,

Or the new v-neck version.
Layer it under a light jacket/suit for the (air-conditioned) office, or wear on its own with tailored cotton trousers or a skirt. Add some wedge sandals, an off-white bag and a light cotton scarf to take the style factor up a notch.

How do you keep your style going when the mercury rises?
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Hits and Myths

Last week, Shar at La Femme Couture posted an excellent piece titled Wardrobe Must-Haves...and Myths, a topic I've also been pondering lately, after having read yet another "you-can't-be-truly-stylish-without-these-items-in-your-wardrobe" type articles, that doesn't seem to take into account body type, lifestyle, or climate. I'll admit that in the past I've succumbed to influence of the style book writers (and granted, some of it was good advice that worked for me) but on the whole, I've grown a healthy suspicion of someone else's list of indispensables.

Like Shar, I've found that the White Shirt is one of those items that sounds good on paper, looks very chic on other women, but just doesn't work for me. My combination of large bust and short waist have not yet found a white shirt that is compatible. I don't like to tuck things in; it's just an uncomfortable feeling for me, and I've found few white blouses that don't look sloppy when left untucked. Add to the fact that they tend to wrinkle around the waist after a few hours sitting at my desk, and the overall effect is anything but classic.

T-shirts have become my must-have tops under a jacket or sweater. I love the Banana Republic "Timeless Tee" in black and white, and the Talbot's 3/4 sleeve boatneck tee for cooler weather or worn alone. When the chill really sets in, add a v-neck cashmere pullover (another of my non-negotiables).

The Little Black Dress has achieved mythic status among stylistas, but it's an item that I've managed to make it this far in life without acquiring. (Though not for lack of trying; I'm always on the lookout, but have yet to find one that works for me.) A black suit or a pair of black trousers, on the other hand, are items I can't live without. They've become the backbone of my wardrobe for work, travel and evenings out, and when in doubt I grab my Banana Republic basic black suit, as it's easy to dress up or down with accessories.

I'm still on the fence about trenchcoats. I love the look, but most I've found tend to have too much bulk in the waist, and tying the belt renders the "sack of potatoes" effect. So I tend to wear them open, if at all.

Truly indispensable for me is a black leather walking length jacket, like this one. Worn over a cashmere sweater, it's warm enough for Southern California winters, and doubles as a raincoat in all but the heaviest downpours.

Accessories: keeping the silhouette simple allows me to play more with scarves and other accessories. Still, there's a less-is-more factor at work, and with my lack of height it's easy to look swamped when there are too many focal points. Indispensables include a good watch, a simple pair of gold hoops, scarves (bien sur) and a favorite fragrance.

Later this week: shoes and bags!

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Fantasy Style

In a day or two, I'm going to expand on my Dolly post a bit, and talk about some of my real life style influences (and quite the crazy quilt it is) but here are some of my Fantasy Style influences, if money and body weren't an issue:

The Hepburns (Katherine and Audrey)





Juliette Binoche's character in Chocolat

(Googling, this was the only picture I could find from the movie that shows anything below her neck, but I couldn't bear to crop out Johnny Depp. ;-) Her shoes were great too.)

And even more recently, this pic of Carolina Herrera from The Sartorialist really resonated...

(Anyone know where I can find a skirt like that? Some might say this is boring, but to me it's fabulous: the simplicity, the sophistication, the POCKETS!)